ESP STING II Instrukcja Właściciela Pobierz pdf (Strona 4)

String Gauges

ESP guitars are strung with the following gauges at our factory. Using the same gauge will probably save

you some time in setting up and re-tuning your instrument after you change the strings. Note: String gauge

is a matter of preference, and some players will be more comfortable using a different gauge than provided,

especially when using alternate tunings. If you wish to change to a heavier gauge of strings, please consult

a qualiﬁed repair technician to do this for you - using a heavier string gauge will require re-slotting the nut,

adjusting the truss rod and changing other settings and should only be done by a qualiﬁed repair technician.

Factory String Gauges & Tunings

String Gauge (Low to High) Tuning (Low to High)

6-str guitar w/trem 42/32/24/16/11/9 E/A/D/G/B/E

6-str guitar non-trem 46/36/26/17/13/10 E/A/D/G/B/E

7-str guitar & baritone 56/46/36/26/17/13/10 B/E/A/D/G/B/E

8-str guitar & baritone 68/56/46/36/26/17/13/10 F#/B/E/A/D/G/B/E

6-str baritone 56/46/36/26W/17/13 B/E/A/D/F#/B

6-str acoustic 52/42/32/24W/15/11 E/A/D/G/B/E

4-str bass 105/85/65/45 E/A/D/G

4-str bass (Detuned) 130/110/90/70 B/E/A/D

5-str bass 125/105/85/65/45 B/E/A/D/G

6-str bass 125/105/85/65/45/30 B/E/A/D/G/C

8-str bass 90/40, 70/35, 55/25, 40/20P E/A/D/G w/doubled octave strings

Stringing Your Guitar or Bass

When winding strings on to the tuning machine post, always wind them tightly

and evenly to avoid any slipping than can occur if there are any gaps. Always use

at least 2 or 3 winds around the post starting from top to bottom. As a rule of

thumb, use about and extra 5cm (2 inches) of slack when restringing a guitar

and about 8cm (3 inches) of slack when restringing a bass. For unwound,

or plain strings, follow the diagram (Figure 1) detailing how to install these

strings on to the post to prevent them from slipping.

1. Insert end of string into tuning post (make sure to leave enough slack for a few wraps around the post).

2. Wrap end of string clockwise around post and under the string where it goes into the post (counter-

clockwise when stringing tuners on treble side of headstock).

3. Pull end of string tight over itself making a sort of knot (end of string may then be bent down and cut

off cleanly near knot).

4. Tune to pitch, making sure the wraps wind neatly down the tuning post.

For tuning machine posts where the string must be inserted into the post (most bass tuners), the strings

must be cut to length in advance. Use a pair of string cutters and make sure to cut them long enough to

give enough wraps around the posts. (If you’re not sure, then it’s better to guess longer than shorter. You can

always cut more length off of the end of the string, but you can’t add any length once you’ve cut it).

Note: Strings are always wound clockwise around the posts on the bass side and counter-clockwise around

the posts on the treble side of headstock.

Note: If you have locking tuners on your guitar (Figure 2), then you don’t have to put any

winds on the post. Simply cut or loosen the old string and loosen locking pin by turning

thumbwheel counter-clockwise. Remove old string and feed new string through post-

hole. Tighten thumbwheel clockwise to lock the pin on to the string. Tune the string

to pitch without any wraps on the post and cut off excess string. Note: Do not

remove thumbwheel or use pliers to tighten/loosen locking tuning machines.

Note: If you have Gotoh locking tuners there is no thumbwheel located on

the backside of tuner. To string the guitar, simply feed string through and tune

as normal and string post will lock automatically. Tuner lock may be loosened

at the top of string post by using a straight screwdriver or small coin (counter-

clockwise on bass side of headstock / clockwise on treble side of headstock).

Tuning Machine Adjustment

Most ESP guitars have adjustable tuning machine heads. Many times,

these parts can loosen after time, so it is a good idea to check the

tension when changing strings. If you ever need to change the tension

or feel of a tuning machine head, simply tighten (clockwise) or loosen

(counter-clockwise) with a small Phillips or ﬂathead screwdriver

(Figure 3). This screw should be snug, but be careful not to over-

tighten, as it is easy to strip the threading on the screw.

NECK & TRUSS ROD

All ESP instruments have an adjustable truss rod located inside of the neck. The function of a truss rod is to

provide adjustment against the string tension on the neck. The following are the most common reasons why

a truss rod adjustment might be needed: changing string gauge, changing tuning, environmental changes

such as heat or humidity. Your guitar will operate poorly if the truss rod is not adjusted properly, so it is

important to be able to recognize when your neck needs a truss rod adjustment. Truss rod adjustment should

be performed periodically in order to keep your guitar playing properly. Adjusting the truss rod is the ﬁrst step

when setting up an instrument to play properly. You should always do the truss rod adjustment before setting

string action, as adjusting the truss rod will affect the height of the strings.

Note: Most all ESP guitars are built with two-way adjusting truss rods. An ordinary truss rod may be

loosened to the point where there is no more adjustment in the counter-clockwise direction. In most

cases, this means replacing the neck or using heavier string gauges to bring the neck back to where it is

not back-bowed. This will never happen with your guitar since it has a two-way adjusting truss rod.

Adjusting The Truss Rod

To adjust the truss rod, ﬁrst locate the truss rod access at the headstock (Figure 4) or end of neck by body

joint (Figure 5), remove the truss rod cover, and insert the correct size allen wrench (4mm) or pipe wrench

(8mm) to adjust. Turn counter-clockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten.

Note: If your truss rod nut access is not visible, it is possible your

instrument has it located inside of the neck pocket (Figure 6) – this will

require the neck to be taken off of the body to adjust the truss rod.

Note: Truss rod adjustments should only be performed by a qualiﬁed

technician. Improperly adjusting or over adjusting the truss rod can

result in damage to the guitar neck and is not covered under the ESP

limited lifetime warranty.

Checking Neck Bow

Correct truss rod adjustment is determined by the amount of bow or

relief that is in the neck. To check neck bow, hold your guitar in playing

position and check the low E and high E strings using the following

method (Figure 7). With your fretting hand, hold down the string at

the ﬁrst fret. Now with your picking hand thumb, fret the same string

at the area where the neck joins the body (around 16th fret). While

holding both sections of the string in place, stretch your index ﬁnger

of your picking hand as far as possible into the middle area of the neck

(frets 7-9) and tap the string down to the frets. The amount of distance

that the string is travelling to reach the frets is the amount of bow that

is in the neck (you may also use feeler gauges to measure this distance,

but it’s not necessary). It is desirable to have a slight amount of bow,

but not too much. About .3 mm - .5 mm (.010” - .020”) is usually

plenty of bow. Having too much bow will cause excessive buzzing in

the center area of the neck and will cause the strings to be farther

Figure 1: Stringing Plain Strings

Figure 5: Truss Rod by Body Joint

Figure 6: Truss Rod Inside Neck Pocket

Figure 2: Stringing Locking Tuners

with Thumbwheel

LoosenTighten

Figure 3: Tuner Tension

Loosen

Tighten

Figure 4: Truss Rod at Headstock

Loosen

Tighten

W = Wound, P = Plain

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

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